Words by Alex, Pics by “the team”
Crew: El Pud, El Pres, TJ, Butty, Troll, Slim, Stunt
Route: National Route 7 from Inverness to Glasgow, mainly bike paths, quiet lanes and occasional road.
Conditions: Nigh on Perfect – Blue skies, light winds, no midgies
The night before
A famous five (minus El Pud and Stunt) assemble in Alderley Edge for some food and fizz at the Bubble room, before a fast and rapid stint across to Warrington to overnight at the Boutique hotel! El Pud drives there and a quiz is held to determine who is on which train in the morning (Virgin trains max 4 bikes)
Day 1 Inveness to Aviemore. “google said” 33miles, actual 40!
Early Start for the Trains – 2 fast trains to Glasgow/Edinburgh then 2 tiny trains to Inverness. Ice creams in the sun, and banter with the local “characters” whilst awaiting Stunt. Flying Manchester to Inverness, then assembling bike, ditching packaging and riding into town, a little later than planned we are all assembled at the start by 3:45.
Sun is shining, El Pud is in charge of maps, and we are off, wiggling through the outskirts of Inverness, down lanes, across rivers, a quick stop to see prehistoric stone tombs (a big pile of rocks being investigated by german tourists!), some steep climbs to get back level with the railway (which we are gently following south).
El Pud has a mechanical 15 miles in…yes who could have predicted that!!! (pedal strips out of crank..irreparable, he retires via thankfully shorter and downhill route back to inverness to catch train to Aviemore).
The rest of us continue on, enjoying the scenery, but wondering how the projected distances seem to be getting longer than “google said”. As its all uphill from sea level to the Sloch pass snackage and water consumption are considerable.
Some refreshment is in order, and the Carrbridge hotel provides the perfect stop, a pint and a packet of crisps in the sunshine. Temping to stop longer, but we need to get moving or there will be no food later!
An occasional route discussion needed as route 7 heads in the opposite direction to the main road, but all is good, and despite taking the advice of a man drinking outside a pub in Boat of Garten (it was a rather posh village) we do the 5 mile “off road” track into Aviemore.
It’s the highlight of the day, as smooth firm surface winds its way through heather and woods, with views of the mountains tinged pink in the angled evening light. Only one missing signpost to marginally delay our arrival. El Pud has just beaten us (and a can of Tenants extra to boot).
Quick check in to the YHA and then out for food.
The local “shouty lasses” are already full oiled and amused by our arrival at the Caledonian hotel, we are happy to get a table for 7 overlooking the stacked bikes. Hearty food, adequate beer and then back for sensible o’clock.
Day 2 Aviemore to Pitlochry
Booked cooked breakfasts are devoured as the riding calorie consumption has been recognised by both mind and body. El Pud heads out straight away to find a bike shop, the rest of us mobilise in slightly more leisurely fashion, and the head for “proper” coffee (we the Troll does anyway). Cash machine & Tesco express for fund & snack replenishment, and proper coffee all round – but we are away by 10:15….and El Pud managed to get a second hand crank for £10 (and purchase stunt a new bottle cage to boot). Butty manages to set his garmin correctly to collect stats (sadly none from yesterday)
Starting in the woods its more climbing soon enough and although sunny, it’s still chilly (-1 overnight). Snow patches are evident on the mountains (snow at aviemore 2 weeks previously). Much of today we are in earshot of the A9, as there is only a narrow valley much of the way.
First stop is Dalwhinney “coldest inhabited place in the UK” and home to the Dalwhinney distillery.
We opt for the standard 2 taste tour (the 6 taste experience a bit excessive even for us!). We learn how the condensers run best in the winter with the cold temperatures and snow melt..and the Winter gold bottled from October to March is indeed rather fine, so we buy a bottle with our discount.
Bramp Alert! El Pud has been texting old friends, and we enjoy an hour or so of fine company outside the nice cafe in the village, and hear how the Bramps are taking to life running a B&B away from it all.
Time to move on, and as we climb ever higher to the Drumochter pass, closer and closer to the A9, surface getting worse and worse. El Pud punctures almost immediately that we get over the top, the extra speed being too much for the …hang on..his advice to the rest of us was 25mm min tough tyres..and he is running worn 23mm ones!!
Tis not a bad place to replace the tube, less amused when it goes almost straight away ..although Butty does find him an alternative bike 🙂
A long (and well earned) descent takes us by the very scenic banks of the river Garry, so we stop for a wee nip, before heading into Blair Atholl where we have our second social stop of the day, as Butty’s Mum (and Derek) are staying in Pitlochry and have come out to meet us. We have starter with our cold beers (Haggis Nachos!!) whilst we hear tales of Butty’s childhood (and gently people watch…some serious drinking going on on one table..staggering and shirtless by the time we left..wide berth)
The train is tempting, but carry on we must, mostly down (but the occasional climbs really hurt now!).
Pitlochry is quite smart, and fish n chips outside is a fine end to the day.
El Pud kept quiet about the final ascent to the YHA (but the views are excellent) especially with another Dalwhinnie to take the edge off the day 🙂
Day 3 Pitlochry to Callender
The morning dawns with sunshine on the hills, cool in the shade, and coffee in the hand. El Pud does a brekkie run (we were too late to book cooked breakfasts last night) and we enjoy fruit, yoghurt, museli, croissants & filter coffee.
Today we will turn right away from the A9 and start cutting south west. Crossing rivers there are short climbs then undulations through wooded farmland. A good day for wildlife spotting, a private bridge (once the tractor had crossed) and dust devils on the potato fields.
15 miles in – we need a top up, and coffee and a snack is ordered at a local hotel, run by two auzzies (and an old collie who is keen to fetch stick). The food and drinks take a long time to arrive, although the sunny position is no hardship. Cutting one small pie and two flaky sausage rolls into 7 – we lets just day we all had some bits!
Lunch plan for today is to stop at the next shop we pass, buy provisions and picnic on Loch Tay.
A posh deli & tea rooms provide the provisions (at exotic prices and troll excitement) – plenty of vintage cars (some nice jags!), and motorbikers on Sunday rides. Leaving the masses behind we turn onto the quiet road on the opposite bank of the Loch. Its a steady climb – the views get better, we pass the odd other cyclist, and by 1:30 Butty tells us we are far enough to justify the picnic stop. A sunny field, chopping board & knife and Troll serves up peppery cheese & courgette scots pancakes with a selection of crisps & bhajis.
Refreshed we continue, and more undulations with “Net down” into Killin and the falls of Dochart. Its been hot so a tea stop and refill of water bottles is needed. very scenic
Final climb of the day, another 1000 ft or so, which turns out to initially be a gentle old railway line, but the abruptly turns right onto steep fire roads, then suprises us again with smooth tarmac through the forest!
We pop out at burger munching traffic polis at a greasy van in the pull off by the top of the pass.
Our route requires us to cross the road (some care required!) and back onto the old railway line – a fabulous descent clinging high to the valley sides on good surface (free miles finally!).
Dropping into woods some steep switch backs and then more woodland trails. El Pud informs us that he has arranged another social stop with old uni mates, we stop in at Mhor 84, a busy upmarket establishment! We manage to get a table, and relax with a cold pint (and our priciest starter ever!) whilst Grant and Lyn ask us about our trip, give advice about where to eat later, and wax lyrical about all things Scots.
There is still some way to go, we say our goodbyes and head back to Route 7. After a few wiggles the signs take us to the quiet shores of Loch Lubnaig, the surface deteriorates and El Pud inevitably punctures again!
the last of the jelly babies and liqourice allsorts are consumed in the resulting faff. It is a beautiful ride, but we split into two groups as a combination of weary legs and desire to take pictures takes its toll.
Lead group leave cunning trail markers to ensure the laggards turn off the trail to the right pub for food.
It’s not the best establishment we’ve ever been to, but hunger means we demolish our food with relish.
It’s well past 9 by the time we get to Callender and our independent hostel. A quick change and an explore for somewhere for a final drink…but wee scottish towns are rather quiet on a Sunday night, and even Tesco’s don’t sell you decent alchohol past 10pm. We do buy in breakfast provisions for the morning, and the walk has done our legs good.
A sonata of snoring and accompanying flatulence provide a suprisingly good backdrop for sleep.
Day 4 Final push to Glasgow
Another boring sunny dry morning in Scotland (have we been good in previous lives or is fate storing something up!?). The route suggests that the “hard miles” are the first half of today, so after a healthy breakfast, a little bit of bike faffing, and a prompt start at 9:15.
A mile or so of country lanes leads us towards Loch Venachar and the Invertrossach’s. The path now takes us alongside the loch and then climbs up and over to the second Loch, it’s achingly beautiful, totally deserted and takes our breath away. Every now and again we just need to stop and soak it all in!
The climb is soon forgotten, we could have stayed there all day. Sadly we can’t, there is excellent descending on the far side, and we drop out into Aberfoyle, for the best coffee and pancakes ever!
With trains to catch, we cannot slack as much as yesterday, onwards..ever onwards.
The scenery changes again to country lanes, occasional stretches of cycle path, and a not quite hilly, not quite flat landscape….until one final big climb ..it’s steep, it’s straight and it’s tough! we are very glad it’s over!!
Although we are heading for Loch Lomond, but there is no obvious sign of it until we are almost upon it.
Right at the bottom corner we hit it, and in a lovely country park setting. Down to the water we go, and have the best value stop – delicious sausage, bacon and egg baps with tea (all 7 eat for the price of a single Mhor84 starter!!) Lots of dogs chasing balls and sticks in and out of the water, and a hardy pensioner swimming in the cold water.
Dragging ourselves away, we turn towards the urban lowlands, following rivers edging Dumbarton, then along the Clyde through Clydebank. Peleton forms, pace is cranked up..is it to ensure we get the train…or that late lunch & beer??. Not much urban broken glass, and even Partick with its tenaments and weird metal sheeted pigeon loft “clubs”? look nice in the sunshine. We do get some odd looks from the normal cycle commuters, school kids and dog walkers (or maybe they can smell us!).
Finally at 4pm we are installed in a street bar/cafe being served cold lager (and one dodgy cocktail) and ordering the whole pizza menu! El Pud cheers up the New Zealand waitress by getting her nationality right, we are looked after very well 🙂
Train o’clock, and train 2 is delayed, but otherwise all goes smoothly (as do the G&T’s).
Even Warrington doesn’t look too bad in the evening sunshine. TJ & Butty ride home (major respect), Stunt hitches a lift with El Pud, and the rest negotiate a good rate with a transit taxi.
A most excellent trip….Glasgow to Carlisle next time???